Day 5 – Twice Brewed to Kellah (or Wall, Wall, Train, Bog, Memories)

Once or Twice Brewed?

The first of our two shorter days began with light drizzle. Not sure how it would turn out we opted for being fully prepared and put on our waterproofs (including trousers) this proved rather over zealous and they were soon removed.

What a view!

The views along the wall are quite impressive. Oddly I don’t much remember walking the section to the west of Twice Brewed as a child and as much as walking along a two thousand year old wall can feel it all felt very new.

What a convenient leaning post.

Soon after starting we were at this trig point which one imagines is useful in some ways to the Ordnance Survey (or at least was). It is so very strange to think that when we first started walking around here 20 yeas ago my father only just had his first phone and the number did not yet begin ’07’!


I always imagined that the two foot high wall had somehow survived the last 2000 years by a mysterious fate but it is clear to me now that this is the consequence of some serious restoration work over the last, many, years. Without the restoration it just looks like all the other Roman Roads in Britain.

Don't walk on this road it's a wall.
Don’t walk on this road it’s a wall.

As soon as we were satisfied the rain had stopped we took our waterproofs off which was, of course, a sure sign it was about to rain again.

Keeps it dry.
Keeps it dry.

Once off the wall my altitude projection indicated a strong uphill climb. Sadly this, combined with my desire to make it to Kellah as soon as possible, meant we had to pass on the very tempting sign at the level crossing indicating that afternoon tea was available at Greenhead until 4pm. We did, however, get to enjoy an old ruin.

Kelvin Macleod wants to film someone refurbishing me.

Before setting off my partner asked whether or not there was any chance I might die on this trip. Of course the answer she was looking for was, ‘of course not darling do not be so silly,’ but that would not really be true. I knew that there were roads that needed to be crossed.

More dangerous than climbing the Cheviot?

From our trip so far it would seem that the path to Kellah from the top of Greenhead Clough is one of the worst parts of the path. In my humble opinion it is because there is no path.

Can you see the path?

Foolishly, I have had a form of ‘GPS vision’ akin to ‘tunnel vision’, which due to the accuracy of my location information leaves me unable to look around the map and insted I tend to focus on the green diamonds that make up the legal PenNine Way. Having completed this section I am convinced that there is no identifiable path around the legal route on this stretch but the map contains a path which we should have seen and which is there.

Still no path.
Still no path.

Having trudged through the bog we met a walker with some rather bad sunburn on the tip of his nose. Soon after we landed at Kellah where we greeted by a very heavily pregnant Teasdale the younger. Staggeringly, I would swear that Mrs Teasdale had not aged a day since the first time she took me out to feed the lambs as a boy. What is more this B&B comes with that most rare of all things – do-it-yourself laundary!

I went to Halton Lea Gate once, it was a disappointment.
I went to Halton Lea Gate once, it was a disappointment.

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